Barnens kusin har en radiostyrd bil: Nikko VaporizR 2. Den är tankstyrd, men ena sidan fungerade inte.
Jag hoppades att det bara var nått enkelt fel i sändaren, men så var det inte tyvärr.
Det visade sig vara metallen i kommutatorn som kletat ut ut och kortslutit ena motorn.
Det i sin tur fick en kombinerad N-/P-kanals mosfet i ena H-bryggan att släppa ut den magiska röken och tagit med sig lite av en ledare på kretskortet. Jag lyckades öppna motorn och göra rent den, skrapa rent i spåren mellan sektionerna i kommutatorn och få ihop den igen. Bytte MOSFET-kretsen och bytte två BJT:er som styr H-bryggan (Se engelska beskrivningen nedan för detaljer om beteckningar). De hade tagit en genväg och skippat en induktor så antennkabeln skulle inte lödas på lödön märkt "Ant" utan en bit upp upptäckte jag efter att ha skruvat ihop den igen och fick väldigt dålig räckvidd.
Lägg in isärplockningsinstruktioner/reparationsinstruktioner nedan som jag knåpat ihop här ifall någon annan hittar hit:
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//Mikael
Disassemble and Repair Nikko Vaporizr 2 RC car
The error with this one was that only one side was moving.
To dissassemble take off the chassie as if you where removing the battery. Remove the battery. Remove all four wheels by unscrewing a single center screw in each wheel. Just pull the wheel out when that screw is removed/unscrewed.
Unwind the antenna from the plastic holder. Remove the four screws from the battery holder two at each side, two of them is a bit special and holds the see through antenna holder. The battery box can now be removed up.
At the back of the car is the power switch. The part with the power switch has two screws on the side in a kind of slot. After the two screws are removed the part is still stuck. This part kind of like grabs the car from the sides. It is stuck into two vertical slots in the car. To remove it pry the "wings" where the screws was out away from the side of the car and it will come loose with some bending.
The car is made up of two halves. They are joined in the middle of the car. The joint is stretching from the front center to the back center above and under the car. Now unscrew all the 12(?) screws that keeps the halves together. Some screw might hide behind the cables on the top side. Now pull the halves away from each other. There is two metal rods, one going from left rear to right rear wheel and one from left front wheel to right front wheel. Some force might be needed, but dont rip to hard, there are wires going between the halves.
Every halve has a motor. In one of the halfs is the electronics in a plastic box. The plastic box is kept by two screws, remove them and the box comes loose. Be carful, the antenna cable is a bit short and enters the plastic box through a hole. in the middle of the plastic box is another screw keeping the electronics plastic box together. Remove that screw and unsnap the plastic snap connectors to open the box up. The circuitboard can be seen.
It might help to desolder the antenna wire from the PCB to get better access to the PCB. When resoldering the antenna, take care, I resoldered it at the pad marked "Ant" but an inductor going to that pad was never factory mounted, they probablt realized it was'nt neccesary, so the antenna was soldered on another pad.
The board has one H-bridge for the motor on the left side and one H-bridge for the motor on the right side. Every H-bridge is made up of two equal mosfet IC's. It's a AO4606 SOIC-8. It contains one P-channel and one N-channel mosfet. The Gates of the two mosfets is controlled by two SOT-23 BJT (normal transistor). The one marked Y2 is a PNP and the one marked Y1 is a NPN. A BC807 PNP and a BC817 NPN is pin compatible. On my board one of the mosefet IC's and two transistors was completly burned out. This was probably from the commutator of one of the motors beeing smeard, basically shorting that motor. I successfully remove the motor, desoldered the filter components and cables on the back of the motor away, opened the motor and cleaned the commutator. (as in scraping metal that had smeared off.)
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